Trevor's Kitchen Garden How I grow my own food and how you can too.

It is heartening to be asked to visit and speak at meeting all over Ireland where people are developing greater self-reliance in food growing, but also in energy management, sustainable employment and all kinds of ways to live in harmony with nature.

Local people in Rush who are in tune with global challenges coming down the tracks have set up R.O.O.T.S., in other words Rush Open Organisation for Transition Status. Dermot Higgins, a local teacher with a young family, called the meeting and it was packed, in Rush Community Centre. In fact a bigger room in hindsight would have been handy. Nonetheless, everyone got involved, had their say and planned the next stage towards making Rush a ‘transition town’.

For my part, I spoke about the need to look seriously at how this countrycould feed itself, given that Irish imports of fruit and vegetables have risen from €344 million in 2003 to over €496 million in 2010. Buying Irish grown produce is vital. Likewise supporting farmers’ markets and local shops will help maintain local economies and growing a wider variety of fresh produce locally is key to making us more resiliant. The current quest for food security has parallells with the measures taken during the Second World War. ‘Dig for Victory’ was the cry then. Today the danger is not so muchm about merchant shipping being bombed, it is that everyday shiploads of imported food, tansport fuel and agri-chemicals could in time be unable to afford the oil they currently take for granted to carry on the globalised food business. 

Monaghan Grow It Yourself group understands better than most people the pleasure as well as the necessity to grow more of our own food.  Monaghan GIY asked me to drop in and do an apple juicing demonstration last night. I was delighted to take up the invitiation. The venue, Monaghan Market House is now beautifully restored and a very spacious, bright art gallery and concert venue as well a community meeting place. Having arrived and washed my hand, I set up the juicing equipment. While Gavin Shipley, who invited me, Seán PRO and the 30 or so GIY-ers attending broke in to pods to discuss the intricacies of growing, storing and using garlic, I dispensed a sup of homemade apple juice to  everyone there.

The waste of apples in neglected gardens and orchards around the country is  a terrible reflection of how ill-prepared we are as a country to store good homegrown food and feed ourselves. Meanwhile Ireland imports about €57 million worth of foreign apples every year. The value of Irish apples sold is just €6 million. Our biggest commercial variety is the cooking apple Bramley. Some great dessert apples are also grown and sold here like Elstar, but most of the Royal Gala and Pink Lady types are imported from slightly warmer climates. Warmer climate apples tend to have a longer shelf life as their flesh is often denser. They are not as good for juicing however, I find.

My objective in Monaghan therefore was to encourage people to club together, buy a good juicer, and juice any apples which would not store for long periods. This juice, if not drunk within 3 days, could be frozen in clean lunchboxes etc as ‘blocks of juice’, ready to be thawed and served any time until next year’s apple harvest.

The second objective was to suggest how apples can be stewed with some spices and sultanas and then cooled and frozen for use when no local apples are in season. I know many people who make and freeze apple tarts and many other such delicacies, but space in my freezer is too limited for all that pastry as well as apple. Others just chop up the apples and freeze the pieces for making pies, sauces and other apple dishes when required.

Many people at the meeting were already growing one or more apple trees. While the trees are bare at this time of year, the pleasure of enjoying the gift of a fruit harvest which keeps on giving throughout the Winter and Spring is just one more reason to become involved in G.I.Y. by looking up your local group’s contact details on www.giyireland.com.

I was intrigued to be given a couple of commercially made leaf mould making sacks from Scotland, thank you Zoe. The company making them is called ‘Nutscene’ and the item is a pack of 2 ‘leaf composting sacks’ 95cm by 65 cm. As they are biodegradable as sacks, the question is will they remain intact long enough to allow the leaves to break down? Only way to find out is to use them as intended and observe the outcome.

They certainly look very natural filled with leaves, more so than a leaf filled black plastic bag with holes in it for ventilation. However the hessian and plastic sacks are now stacked side by side. In a year’s time I will take a look again and see what state the leaves (and sacks) are in after that time.

The leaves have fallen from the apple tree in the back and the rowan trees are bare in the front. Vegetation has generally died down and the visibility for birdwatching during these shorter daylight hours is greater. The bird table stands out and the smaller birds can be spotted easily foraging and flitting in and out of the garden.

The other day, a new visitor turned up on the roof adjacent to the woodstore - a heron. What was a resident of rivers and bogs doing in the middle of a housing estate in Balbriggan? I guess he was hungry, like most birds at this time of year. I used to have fish in the garden pond near that woodstore. However, I have not seen any for many years, just water beetles, pondskaters and smaller pond life. Could it be that  the heron knows more about what lives beneath the surface  in the pond than I do?

The mild November (2011) weather has resulted in the Autumn sown broad beans growing faster than I expected. The plants are now tall enough to be blown over in a strong wind. Rather than stake each one and tie each plant to a cane (life is too short for that!), I have created a type of ‘boxing ring with bamboo canes. The garden string is wrapped around the boundary canes and then a square grid of strings cross the ‘ring’. The lattice in the picture is half finished but gives the idea. The more string used, the better the support provided. Another string grid a foot higher up the canes is the next job to support the beans as they get taller. Like a boxer on the ropes, the broad beans may be buffeted by wind but the strings will prevent the broad beans from being blown over. When Spring returns, I am hopeful the bean plants will continue to grow upward and be productive.

Having an organic growing licence means I am invited to the organic certification bodies’ conferences. This time however I needed to be there early as I was asked to chair the conference. The conference involved a 140 km drive to the lovely shores of Lough Ree and the very welcoming Wineport Lodge, near the picturesque village of Glasson, and not far from Athlone, the new HQ of IOFGA. Many attending the conference were not organic farmers, but they were interested nonetheless in getting up to date with the organic sector, and meeting other farmers, retailers, agronomists etc.

Some came to meet Minister of State for Horticulture, Mr. Shane Mc Entee TD who opened the conference. He stressed how the organic sector was at the forefront of maintaining a high standard in food production in Ireland. Farmers present were keen to infer that the Minister was supporting a GM-free crop status continuing. The Minister seemed a bit on the back foot by the GM questions. I wish he had said a GM-free status for Ireland was in the best interests of the economy and the ecology of the country, given the opposition to GM in the markets abroad to which we export. The lack of clarity seems to be another element of  ’de-greening’  Government. IOFGA and all the partners in the www.no2gm.com campaign have a bigger challenge now without a Green element in Government. Logic, science and economic considerations should ordinarily win the day for the GM crop moratorium campaign, but the emotional blackmail from the GM lobby is frightening – claims that world hunger needs GM, for example! GM has already cost the lives of many people, mainly because it has bankrupted thousands of farmers in India – resulting in waves of rural suicides there. Irish farmers are already struggling with debts, becoming slaves to GM corporations would create more problems and is avoidable, but Government and indeed the IFA need convincing! Make your voice heard against the GM juggernaut by signing the petition www.gm-moratorium.com.

Ms. Gundula Azeez from the Soil Association based in Bristol, England, gave a well researched presentation about how organic farming is better at storing carbon than non-organic methods of farming. Global research also proves that organic farming would INCREASE yields of food in the majority of farms worldwide. If Africa went organic, yields would increase from 80 – 100%. In the USA, yield would be the same or slightly better, but organic farming uses about a third less fossil fuel energy – a very important benefit with peak oil threatening. It is mainly in Europe where organic farming means a lower yield, mainly because of reduced stocking rates required by organic standards. However, unless farming is sustainable, then it does not make sense. Organic farming is the most sustainable production system in practise, according to the UN Food and Agriculture Association. It is a pity that Minister Mc Entee had to leave before Gundula made this presentation.

Then Dr. Kim Reilly from Teagasc in Kinsealy reported on research she and colleagues are undertaking to compare organic and non-organic field vegetable production. The factors arising suggest that the specific variety of vegetable grown can be very important to get the best from whatever growing system is used.

Finally (before lunch), Déirdre Hilliard from the Midleton Farmers’ Market gave a fascinating presentation about starting out with a market stall and now developing a range of soups and other products under the brand ‘Just Foods’. Just Foods has gone on to win awards, and Just Food products are now stocked in many supermarkets. However, Déirdre keeps her stall going at the farmers’ market, not just for the income, but for the direct customer feedback which is critical to successful product development.

After lunch, members of IOFGA and the Board of Directors stayed back for the AGM, but that is a matter for the Board to report on. For me as a small time grower and veteran of organisations and committees, it was good to just partake in the discussions on developing the organic sector, a vital part of ensuring Ireland has a sustainable food economy and a healthy population as well as a resilient biodiverse ecosystem.

An ancient olive tree (Olea europaea) in the arid Garden of Gethsemane outside the city walls of Jerusalem.

The possibility of a 10 day pilgrimage to the Holy Land in November was an opportunity not to be overlooked. The compost in Trevor’s Kitchen Garden needs to be dug out of the composter and the space refilled with the kitchen scraps and garden debris, but that can wait a week or two. In contrast to Ireland, Israel is 60% desert. Desert is defined as areas with less than 20cm of rain per annum. In 1964, the Israeli government built a National Water Transporter system to pipe water from the famous Sea of Galilee to other regions. This body of water is really a fresh water lake, 22km (13 mls) long by 12 km (7 mls) wide and lying about 210m (675 ft) below sea level. The River Jordan which feeds the Sea of Galilee and flows on south to the Dead Sea, is now no more than a stream. The water shortages and costs of purifying and transporting drinking water add hugely to tensions between the peoples of that troubled land. While there, a miracle occurred, in other words, it rained! All the locals applauded, cheered and danced around. It could have been a scene from the film classic ’Singing in the Rain’. I find it hard to understand therefore when staying in the Negev Desert with the Bedouins, the wash hand basins had no stoppers. Likewise the hotel in Netanyah on the coast had no stopper to conserve water use. The Israeli government is now, I understand, examining the idea of desalinating sea water, a very very expensive and energy intensive process … and the result is distasteful to drink from my experience staying in Cuba and having to drink desalinated water some years ago.

Amnesty International has highlighted how vindictive actions by the Israeli military are periodically wrecking the agricultural irrigation systems of Palestinians along the West Bank. When I put this to Israelis, they highlight that water is scarce and requires a permit which costs money. No permit, no water! It is no wonder the peace process is fraught with tension. More resourceful Palestinian farmers have dug cisterns to collect any rainwater they can. These are independent of state water distribution, yet Amnesty reports that these private cisterns are being destroyed by the Israeli military too. When will the penny drop that disrespect for fresh water supplies is a recipe for more tension, misery and insecurity?  For more information check out www.amnesty.ie or write, as I did, to Professor Uri Shani, the Head of the Israel Water Authority. 

Only the most drought resistent plants survive in this drought prone landscape. Hence this is the land of olives, dates, figs and pomegranates. The Garden of Gethsemane where Jesus Christ prayed in desperation as he faced torture and crucifixion is still full of ancient olive trees at the foot of the Mount of Olives. Inside the nearby walls of old Jerusalem, the stall holders sell colourful fruit and vegetables. However the water upon which this produce relies to grow is not guaranteed in the years to come.

The unsustainable abstraction of water from the River Jordan (or rivulet really) for irrigation is leaving little more than a trickle to reach the Dead Sea. The water level is there going down by a metre per annum. The Dead Sea is now 426 m below sea level, and falling. The east side of the Dead Sea is in Jordan, another very drought prone country. I returm from the Holy Land appreciating rain, and conscious of the need to manage the resources of rain and fresh water.  Peace can only reign when the rain is respected and water is allocated in a just and sustainable way.

Now back to the kitchen garden greenhouse at home where those mizuna plants need a small sup from the watering can.

The yield from one Charlotte seed potato

Purple Sprouting Broccoli leaves an unlikely dinner dish, but surprisingly good.

I still have a couple of potato plants awaiting harvest. Each purpose made potato-growing bag with handles was sown with one seed tuber on a bed of seaweed topped with mixed soil and compost  to a depth of 20cm altogether. Being early potato varieties, the plants have withered away. The other day, I up-ended the ‘Charlotte’ bag of soil and potatoes. To my delight, a large harvest of good sized white skinned potatoes spilled out. The accompanying photograph  shows what grew from one small seed potato. They boiled well and would have made a good hot or cold potato dish. I mashed mine and they were delicious, served with some fresh mackerel from Balbriggan Fish Market thanks to fishmonger Paul Baxter, who is on the Square here every Friday morning. I also had what looked like cabbage, but was not cabbage (, see the other uploaded picture).

In my small garden, I need to ensure plants needing light are not overshadowed. I noticed the Everlasting Cabbage being overshadowed by the burgeoning Purple Sprouting Broccoli plants. Simple solution, cut back the vigorous broccoli leaves to let more light reach the cabbage. This was a chance to test the eating quality of the broccoli leaves. Surprise, surprise, they tasted very well, just like a good cabbage in fact, once the leaves were cut away from the stalks. They took a little longer to cook than some more tender cabbages, but in the end, this was a ‘tasty cabbage’ by any other name. Delicious with a splash of soya sauce, along with hot buttery mash and locally caught fresh mackerel, delicious.

Once again, the garden yields unexpected food, unavailable in the shops, but very rewarding and flavoursome. The recession may be far from over, but resilience in the kitchen garden is helping to put good food on the table.

Bell-cloche protects parsley outdoors over Winter.

This Winter, I want to have fresh parsley and tarragon, even if the weather turns harsh. It should be simple enough once steps are taken in time before any frost hits the garden. The parsley is oudoors growing away among the leeks. Rather than uproot in and plant it in a pot to take it indoors – one valid option – instead, I have got myself a plastic bell cloche and that has now been placed over the parsley plant. I look forward to  having parsley garnish for the soup on Christmas Day this year. Sorry to be mentioning Christmas!

Onthe other hand, French tarrogan, is quite tender, but lucky enough I have it growing ion a pot outdoors during the Summer. I can now be brought in to the new greenhouse for the winter. Nothing like a bit of chopped fresh tarragon in a scrambled egg of a cold and frosty morning!

Three kale plants and one everlasting cabbage planted where the runner and French beans used to be growing last Summer. 

Time to say goodbye to the  very generous runner bean and French bean plants which have provided many contributions to dinners throughout  the Summer and Autumn. I read that the roots of peas and beans should be left in the ground as the nodules of nitrogen they have created make the rotting  roots a good source of nitrogen for the next crop in that patch – brassicas in my case.  I hear of new research now which says the legume plant uses its stores of nitrogen on its own beans and peas. This means the roots have spent their nitrogen reserves by the time it comes to clear the pea and bean patch. This leads me to just rip out the spent plants for the compost heap, roots and all. Soil tests show I have an abundance of nitrogen in my soil already so no harm done. I store away the wig-wam style supports in the shed until I need them again next Spring when I will  sow more peas and beans.

KALE AND EVERLASTING CABBAGE OUTDOORS: Now with half the patch cleared, it is time to rake it over and prepare the soil for the kale and everlasting cabbage which have been growing away happily in pots. The cabbage grew from a cutting, but the kale plants were bought at Sonairte, the ecology centre just outside Laytown, Co. Meath. Full watering can and trowel in hand, I space the plants about 40cm apart, dig a hole for each, remove plant from pot, place rootball in hole, water hole and then back fill with soil, pressing the ground with the hands so as to leave plant firmly rooted.

MIZUNA ORIENTAL GREENS UNDER GLASS: Also in Sonairte, I bought a module tray of 9 Mizuna plants. I have not grown these before, but having heard Joy Larkcom at the recent GIY Gathering in Waterford raving about oriental greens, I am now enthused to plant them in

Mizuna plants, an oriental brassica, in one of four plots in the new greenhouse.

It is satisfying to know that in the depths of Winter, fresh greens for steaming, stir-fries or colcannon will be on hand outside the back door, a decent return on an hours work for a couple of euro in plants.

Customers and stallholders thank Michael for his work for Balbriggan Market 14.10.11

Friday 14th October was the week when most stallholders said ‘that’s it, colder weather will mean less customers’, and in my case, less fruit and vegetables. Time to find an indoor venue and come back to George’s Square in the Spring’. Paul Baxter and his local fresh fish stall can hopefully continue on the Square as Winter means more fish being caught, so I look forward to buying some fish there each Friday through the Winter. However, with less fresh produce otherwise and only hardy customers, the other stalls could not remain viable in the colder weather unfortunately. We will have an outdoor Christmas Market, however, as we did last year, where I dispensed hot (non -alcoholic) seasonal punch, ho, ho, ho!

Meanwhile, we marked the conclusion of the outdoor season with a presentation to the Market Manager, Michael Grimes, who has been first up on the Square in Balbriggan and last to leave each week, setting up gazeboes, arranging electricity supplies for fridges, providing music and clearing up spillages etc, week in week out in all weathers. Michael also keeps the market well advertised while paying our bills and keeping us in the black financially. With all this in mind, the stallholders clubbed together and put a thank you card and hamper together. This was kindly presented by Cathaoirleach of Balbriggan Town Council, Cllr. Gráinne Maguire (see picture). Let us all now hope that Michael can locate a suitable indoor location so this weekly award winning Market can continue throughout the Winter – this will all depend on the level of community support , of course! See you there, as we did on the Square.

Harvesting the last apples in Sonairte’s organic walled garden, Laytown, for Balbriggan Fish & Farmers Mkt., 13.10.11